Rwanda Part III – The last three days

After a pleasant enough stay at the Kinigi Guest House we set off for Lake Kivu on Saturday 25 July.

Running along the Congolese border for 90km, the 2,370km² Lake Kivu is one of a string of ‘inland seas’ that submerge much of the Albertine Rift floor as it runs southward from the Sudan to Zambia. Continue reading

Rwanda part II – Mzungus in the mist

Mzungu: Swahili for “white/European person” (courtesy Wikipedia)


We are still amazed at what a beautiful country Rwanda is with all its mountains. More than a thousand hills, I’m sure. It is a pleasure to drive on the beautiful, tarred roads, albeit slowly. There are people and bicycles everywhere, and taxis veering past you at hair-raising speeds. It seems as though every centimetre space are in use. The mountains have all been contoured, manually, and the crops abound. Rice, corn, wheat, potatoes, tomatoes, chrysanthemum and more. Continue reading

Rwanda Part I – Border Jumping and Kigali

Rwanda is a land-locked country in Central Africa. Also known as the “Land of a Thousand Hills”, Rwanda has five volcanoes, 23 lakes and numerous rivers. The country lies 1 270 km west of the Indian Ocean and 2 000 km east of the Atlantic – literally in the heart of Africa.

Continue reading

Tanzania Part II – Jane Goodall’s chimps

On Day 140, a Monday, we left Katavi for Kigoma, on the north-eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika near Burundi. It meant taking the terrible B8 again and being shaken about for hours. At least the last 80 km were tarred, a fantastic surprise. This road wasn’t even on the map and saved us an hour according to our GPS’s estimated arrival time.

Continue reading

Tanzania part I – The not-yet-Chinesed B8 to Katavi National Park

Katavi National Park

Isolated, untrammelled and seldom visited, Katavi is a true wilderness, providing the few intrepid souls who make it there with a thrilling taste of Africa as it must have been a century ago. Continue reading

Zambia Part VII – Ndole Bay


zambia ndole-1

After driving ten hours to cover the 260 kilometres between Lumangwe Falls and Ndole Bay, we finally arrived after dark. Continue reading

Zambia Part VI – Chasing Waterfalls

As usual, we left Kasama way too late to go to Lumangwe Falls. Our first stop, though, was only 30 km down the road at Chishimba Falls. It was truly breathtaking. Continue reading

Zambia Part V – Mutinondo en Kapishya Hot Springs

After our nightmare drive up and down the escarpment, we finally reached the tarred Great North Road again. We started the climbing experience at 500 metres above sea level and reached the highest level at 1 600 metres before we started our descent towards Mutinondo. Continue reading

Zambia Part IV – From South Luangwa to Mutinondo

A lot of the roads we travelled on in Zambia had been traversable only with a 4×4. The road from Livingstone to Lake Kariba was under construction, so most of it was two-spoor sandy roads and the drive took forever. It was also slow going from Lake Kariba to New Kalala and Kafue National Park. After that, we had a few passable tarred roads for a day or two and then it was back to driving off-road. Continue reading

Zambia Part III – South Luangwa National Park

South Luangwa National Park

Experts have dubbed South Luangwa to be one of the greatest wildlife sanctuaries in the world, and not without reason. The concentration of animals around the Luangwa River, and its oxbow lagoons, is among the most intense in Africa. Continue reading